COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A DIRECT EMULSION COMPRISING A SILICONE RESIN, A FILMOGENIC POLYMER AND P

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a direct emulsion comprising: at least 10% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition; At least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one silicone resin; At least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming polymer chosen from synthetic polymers of radical type or polycondensate type, and mixtures thereof; • Optionally at least one volatile oil, hydrocarbon or silicone, at a content such that the weight ratio silicone resin / volatile oil (s) is greater than 1. It also relates to a makeup process and / or care , in particular keratin materials such as the skin, the lips and preferably the lips, in which the above-mentioned composition is applied.
公开号:FR3075623A1
申请号:FR1763011
申请日:2017-12-22
公开日:2019-06-28
发明作者:Sandrine Fernandes
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A DIRECT EMUUSION COMPRISING A SILICONE RESIN, A FIUMOGENIC POWDER AND A PROCESS USING THE SAME
The subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular intended for making up and / or caring for the lips and the skin, being in the form of a direct emulsion, comprising at least 10% by weight of water, at least 10% by weight of a silicone resin, at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one particular fmogenic polymer and optionally at least one volatile oil, at a content such as the weight ratio of silicone resin / volatile oil (s) ( s) is greater than 1, as well as a process for treating / or making up keratin materials, such as the skin or the lips, in particular the lips, using such a composition.
The development of compositions dedicated to making up and / or caring for the lips, in particular fluid compositions such as liquid lipsticks, which are stable and have satisfactory properties in terms of application (sliding on application, ease of spreading, fineness of the deposit), but also in terms of makeup effect of the deposit on the lips, such as for example the absence of migration of the deposit, preferably without developing tights, is a permanent objective. In general, the formulations corresponding to liquid galenics are conventionally anhydrous and include oils, which in particular provide shine, possibly waxes to structure the compositions, fillers in particular to thicken the composition, film-forming polymers, and coloring matters.
These liquid lipsticks must be sufficiently fluid to be applied easily but not too much, so as not to degrade the stability of the composition (sedimentation of the pigments) and the ease of application (flow).
With conventional liquid lipstick compositions, it can be seen that the deposit is relatively thick, which gives it a more or less sticky character, in particular induced by the use of these oils and of the polymers present. This character can be reflected in particular by a phenomenon of adhesion of the lips made up between them, resulting in a feeling of discomfort for the user.
For some time now, liquid lipstick compositions have appeared on the market, in the form of aqueous emulsions, direct or reverse. When applied, they provide a fresh effect, and are not very sticky or not, comfortable and remain so once deposited. They also make it possible to obtain a homogeneous deposit, sufficiently shiny, with satisfactory hold and non-transfer properties.
However, it is desired to further improve the gloss and the gloss resistance of these compositions, without degrading comfort too significantly, in particular with an increase in the tackiness. We also want to increase the color fastness and improve the non-transfer properties. It is moreover advantageous to be able to have compositions which can be applied both to the lips and to the skin, in particular of the face and more precisely of the cheeks.
We are therefore looking for compositions, in particular liquids, which make it possible to obtain a deposit whose gloss resistance and transfer resistance are improved without significantly losing comfort, in particular increasing the tack too much. We are also looking for compositions whose deposition on the lips or on the skin, in particular the cheeks, although very fine, makes it possible to obtain a visible, shiny coloring, with improved color fastness.
These aims and others are achieved by the present invention which relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a direct emulsion, comprising: • At least 10% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition; • At least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one silicone resin; • At least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming polymer chosen from synthetic polymers of radical type or of polycondensate type, alone or as a mixture; • Optionally at least one volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, in a content such that the weight ratio silicone resin / volatile oil (s) is greater than 1.
The composition is therefore in the form of an emulsion the continuous phase of which is the aqueous phase.
The film deposited on the lips has the advantage of being thin, providing a fresh effect on application, without significant migration to fine lines and wrinkles.
The composition is stable, easy to apply, comfortable on application because the deposit obtained is not very sticky, and the rest once in place. Furthermore, the deposit does not leave an impression of dry lips
In addition, the deposit obtained by applying the composition according to the invention has a satisfactory gloss as well as a gloss resistance.
The color fastness of the deposit obtained by applying the composition is improved, as is its transfer resistance. Note that in the following description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a domain are included in this domain.
The expressions “at least one” and “several” are used interchangeably.
Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention is advantageously in a liquid form.
By “liquid” is meant a fluid texture in particular whose viscosity at 25 ° C. is more particularly between 0.01 and 10 Pa.s, more particularly between 0.05 to 8 Pa.s.
Protocol for viscosity measurement:
The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25 ° C., using a RHEOMAT RM 100 viscometer equipped with a mobile No. 1 or 2, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition, at a shear of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).
SILICONE RESIN
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.
More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, for example, within the meaning of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin within the meaning of the present invention.
The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known by the name "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different monomeric siloxane units which it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.
The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
The letter "D" signifies a RIR2S1O2 / 2 Difunctional unit in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms
The letter "T" represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RIS1O3 / 2.
Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.
In the units M, D, T defined above, Ri, namely Ri, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or still a hydroxyl group.
Finally, the letter "Q" signifies a Tetrafunctional unit S1O4 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of the radical (s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains. As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type. MQ resins: As an example of silicone resins of the MQ type, mention may be made of alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [(Rl) 3SiOi / 2] x (SiO4 / 2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,
As examples of solid silicone resins of MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold under the reference SRI 000 by the company Momentive Performances Materials, under the reference MQ 1600 by Dow Corning, under the reference Belsil TMS 803 by the company Wacker.
As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxy silicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalky siloxy silicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company Momentive Performances Materials). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in US Pat. No. 5,817,302. T resins: As examples of silicone resins of type T, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiCLajx (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes possibly also comprising Si-OH end groups.
Mention may also be made of polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described for example in document US 5,246,694.
Preferably, it is possible to use polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group, such as for example those marketed: - by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH3S1O3 / 2 ( T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3) 2SiO2 / 2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g / mol, or - - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3S1O3 / 2 and have terminal groups Si-OH (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of units dimethyl D and have end groups Si-OH or also under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have end groups Si-OH. - - by the company Dow Corning under the references Dow Corning 670 Eluid, Dow Corning 680 Eluid, as a mixture in cyclopentasiloxane and in isododecane respectively. MQT resins: As a resin comprising MQT units, we know in particular those cited in document US 5 110 890.
A preferred form of MQT-type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005/075542, the content of which is incorporated here by reference.
The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units: - (l) (Rl3SiOl / 2) a - (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2) b - (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2) c and - (iv) (SiO4 / 2) d with - RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, - a, b, c and d being molar fractions, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, - b being between zero and 0.3, - c being greater than zero, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, -a + b + c + d = l, - provided that more than 40 mol% of the groups R3 of the siloxane resin are groups propyl. - Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units: - (l) (Rl3SiOl / 2) a - (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2) c and - (iv) (SiO4 / 2) d with - RI and R3 representing independently an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, RI preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0, 4, - c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or even between 0.2 and 0.55, -a + b + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d being molar fractions, - provided that more than 40 mol% of the groups R3 of the siloxane resin are groups propyl.
The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (RLSiOi ^ X and (SiCLajd - Ri representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - a and d being greater than zero, - the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and from B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R3SiO3 / 2) c, - R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - c being greater than zero, - provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups, - where the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.
Advantageously, the A / B mass ratio is between 95: 5 and 15:85. Preferably, the A / B ratio is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have been found to provide comfortable deposits.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one MQ type resin as described above.
In particular, the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
Advantageously, the silicone resin is present in a content of at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of silicone resin represents between 10 and 45% by weight, preferably between 12 and 40% by weight, in particular between 15 and 35% by weight, or even from 18 to 35% by weight, relative to the weight of composition.
The silicone resin can be used in powder form, in a form dissolved in a solvent, in a form conveyed in a liquid or even in an emulsified form in water. Note that in the latter case, the silicone resin is preferably in a conveyed form, advantageously dissolved in a solvent, then emulsified.
As regards the silicone resins conveyed in a solvent, the latter is usually chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile and preferably volatile.
By volatile oil is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature (25 ° C), ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa, Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 13,000 Pa, and more particularly going to 1300 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).
Mention may in particular be made, as volatile hydrocarbon oils, of alkanes, preferably branched in 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as in particular the C 6 -C 6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane , isohexadecane.
As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. Examples of such oils that may be mentioned are octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclo-hexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, such as polydimethysiloxanes, such as polydimethysiloxanes by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A by Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.
Among the silicone resins, in particular of the MQ type, which are in a form conveyed in a solvent, there may be mentioned in particular KOBOGUARD® MQ65TMF (mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate and methyl trimethicone) sold by Kobo; KF-7312J (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), KF-7312K, KF-7312L (mixtures in dimethicone), KF-7312T (mixture in trimethicone), X-21-5249 (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), X-21- 5249L (mixture in dimethicone), X-21-5250, X-21-5250L (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone respectively), X-21-5595, X-21-5616 (mixtures in isododecane), KF -9021, KF-9021L (mixtures in cyclopentasiloxane and in dimethicone respectively), sold by Shin Etsu; Silsoft 74, Silshine 151 (mixtures in isododecane) from Momentive Performances Materials; Xiameter RSN-0749 Resin, Dow Corning 749 Fluid (mixtures in cyclopentasiloxane), Dow Corning 593 Fluid (mixture in dimethicone) from Dow Corning.
With regard to the silicone resins in the form of emulsions in water, there may be mentioned for example KM-9717 (emulsion in the presence of an anionic surfactant, comprising a low viscosity silicone), X-52-8005 ((emulsion in the presence of a nonionic surfactant, comprising a low viscosity silicone), sold by Shin Etsu.
FILM-FORMING POLYMER DISPERSION
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of formaldehyde polymer (s).
In the present application, the term "fdmogenic polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary fdmification agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that the said deposit can be isolatable and can be handled in isolation, for example when the said deposit is produced by casting on a non-stick surface such as a teflon or silicone surface.
A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of homogeneous polymer (s) of between 0.5 and 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, and even more preferably 2 at 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the dry matter content of fdmogenic polymer (s) in the composition is such that the weight ratio of silicone resin (expressed as dry matter) / fdmogenic polymer (expressed in dry matter), is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1, even more advantageously greater than or equal to 2.
The composition according to the invention preferably more specifically comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of particles formed from one or more fmogenic polymers.
Film-forming polymer (s) in aqueous dispersion
Such a fdmogenic polymer present in the preparation of the composition in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally bears the name of (pseudo) latex, that is to say latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
A dispersion suitable for the invention can comprise one or more types of particles, these particles being able to vary by their size, by their structure and / or by their chemical nature.
These particles can be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and can constitute a mixture of particles of different natures.
As indicated above, the formogenic polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention are chosen from synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, and their mixtures. In general, these polymers can be random polymers, block copolymers of type A-B, multi-block A-B-A or even ABCD ..., or even graft polymers.
Radical film-forming polymer
By “radical type polymer” is meant a polymer obtained by radical polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular of ethylenically unsaturated monomers; each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike poly condensates).
The film-forming polymers of the radical type can in particular be homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic and / or vinyl.
The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, acid maleic, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more particularly (meth) acrylic acid.
The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C1-C20 alkyl, more particularly in Ci-Cs, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C6-Cio aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.
Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate.
Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, there may be mentioned benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
The esters of (meth) acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates.
According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
As amides of the acid monomers, mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide and N-t-octyl acrylamide.
The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers at least chosen from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
Mention may be made, as styrenic monomers, of styrene of alpha-methyl styrene.
The list of monomers given is not exhaustive and it is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art falling within the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including the monomers modified by a silicone chain).
Mention may also be made of the polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas , polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called "hybrid polymers".
polycondensate
As fdmogenic polymer of polycondensate type, mention may be made of polyurethanes, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyureas / polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
The homogeneous polyurethane can be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane, or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising alone or as a mixture at least one sequence chosen from: - a sequence of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic polyester origin and / or aromatic, and / or, - a silicone block, branched or not, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or - a block comprising fluorinated groups.
The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro , diamino or hydroxy amino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulphonic acid or sulphonate group, or even a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.
Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.
The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylgluratic, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid 1,3- cyclohexanedicarbocylic, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5- acid naphthalenedicarboxylic, 2,6-naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are chosen in particular.
The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. In particular, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.
The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, it is possible to use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from dispersions of acrylic polymers, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyesters dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions , dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride, dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers, dispersions of heart-shell type particles and their mixtures.
Detailed below are various types of aqueous dispersions, in particular commercial, suitable for the preparation of the composition according to the present invention. 1 / Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.
The acrylic polymer can be chosen from acrylic polymers, in particular resulting from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomer (s) such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and / or their esters, in particular C'i alkyl -Cs; styrene / acrylate copolymers, and in particular the polymers chosen from those resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one C1-Cis alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer, optionally in the presence of an acid monomer ( meth) acrylic or one of its salts (ammonium in particular)
As styrenic monomer which can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene ^
The C1-C12 alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer is in particular a C1-C12 alkyl (meth) acrylate and more particularly a C1-C10 alkyl (meth) acrylate. The C1-C6 alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer can be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methacrylate butyl, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate and stearyl (meth) acrylate.
As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use, according to the invention, the styrene / acrylate copolymers sold under the names "Joncryl SCX-8211®" or "Joncryl 77" by the company BASF, "SYNTRAN 5760CG" by the company Interpolymer, or "Rhoplex® P376" by Dow Chemical Company; alkyl acrylates with for example “DAITOSOL 3000 VP3,“ DAITOSOL 3000SLPN-PE1 ”. "DAITOSOL 5000AD" from Kobo Products; the styrene / acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymers sold under the names “SYNTRAN 5009” and “SYNTRAN PC 5620” by the company Interpolymer; the acrylic polymer sold under the reference "Acronal®DS - 6250" by the company BASF, "Joncryl® 95" by the company BASF, the mixture of acrylic polymers sold under the name "SYNTRAN PC 5775" by the company Interpolymer. It is also possible to use the acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymers sold for example under the name "DAITOSOL 5500GM"; "DAITOSOL 4000 SJT" by the company Kobo Products. 2 / according to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and / or polyether-polyurethane particles, in particular anionic.
The anionic character of the polyester-polyurethanes and of the polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups having a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function.
The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally sold in the form of aqueous dispersions.
The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular that sold under the name "Avalure UR 405®" by the company NOVEON or "Baycusan Cl004" by the company BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE.
Among the dispersions of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those marketed under the name of "Avalure UR 450®" by the company NOVEON, and under the name of "Néorez R 970®" by DSM.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of particles of anionic polyester-polyurethane as defined above and of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above.
For example, it is possible to use a mixture consisting of the dispersion marketed under the name of "Sancure 861®" or a mixture of that marketed under the name of "Avalure UR 405®" and that marketed under the name of "Avalure UR 450 ® ”, these dispersions being marketed by the company NOVEON. 3 / According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion used comprises a mixture of at least two fdmogenic polymers in the form of particles distinct by their respective glass transition temperatures (Tg). The polymer (s) may or may not be plasticized.
In particular, according to one embodiment of the invention, the composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one first fdmogenic polymer in the dispersed state and at least one second film-forming polymer in the dispersed state, said first and second polymers having different Tg and preferably the Tg of the first polymer (Tgl) is greater than the Tg of the second polymer (Tg2). In particular, the difference between Tgl and Tg2 is in absolute value, at least 10 ° C, preferably at least 20 ° C.
More specifically, it comprises, in an acceptable aqueous medium: a) particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of a first film-forming polymer having at least a glass transition temperature Tgl greater than or equal to 20 ° C, and b) particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of a second film-forming polymer having at least one glass transition temperature Tg2 less than or equal to 70 ° C,
This dispersion generally results from a mixture of two aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer.
The first film-forming polymer has at least one, in particular at a glass transition temperature Tgl greater than or equal to 20 ° C, in particular ranging from 20 ° C to 150 ° C, and advantageously greater than or equal to 40 ° C, in particular ranging from 40 ° C to 150 ° C, and in particular greater than or equal to 50 ° C, in particular ranging from 50 ° C to 150 ° C.
The second film-forming polymer has at least one, in particular at a glass transition temperature Tg2 less than or equal to 70 ° C, in particular ranging from -120 ° C to 70 ° C, and in particular less than 50 ° C, in particular ranging from - 60 ° C to +50 ° C, and more particularly ranging from -30 ° C to 30 ° C.
The measurement of the glass transition temperature (Tg) of a polymer is carried out by DMTA (Dynamical and Mechanical Temperature Analysis) as described below.
To measure the glass transition temperature (Tg) of a polymer, viscoelasticimetry tests are carried out with a DMTA device from "Polymer laboratories", on a film sample. This film is prepared by pouring the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer into a teflon-coated matrix and then dried at 120 ° C for 24 hours. A film is then obtained from which the test pieces are cut (for example with a cookie cutter). These typically have a thickness of about 150 µm, a width of 5 to 10 mm, and a working length of about 10 to 15 mm. This sample is subjected to a tensile stress. The sample undergoes a static force of 0.01 N to which is superimposed a sinusoidal displacement of ± 8 pm at the frequency of 1 Hz. We thus work in the linear domain, under low levels of deformation. This tensile stress is applied to the sample at temperatures varying from -150 ° C to +200 ° C, with a temperature variation of 3 ° C per minute.
The complex modulus E * = E ’+ iE” of the polymer tested is then measured as a function of the temperature.
From these measurements, we deduce the dynamic modules E ’, E” and the damping power: tgô = E ”/ E’.
Then we plot the curve of tgo values as a function of temperature; this curve has at least one peak. The glass transition temperature Tg of the polymer corresponds to the temperature at which the top of this peak is situated.
When the curve has at least 2 peaks (in this case, the polymer has at least 2 Tg), the temperature for which the curve has a peak of greater amplitude (that is to say value of Tg of the polymer tested) - say corresponding to the greatest value of tg6; in this case only the “majority” Tg is considered as the value of Tg of the polymer tested).
In the present invention, the transition temperature Tgl corresponds to the “majority” Tg (in the sense defined above) of the first film-forming polymer when the latter has at least 2 Tg; the glass transition temperature Tg2 corresponds to the “majority” Tg of the second film-forming polymer when the latter has at least 2 Tg.
The first film-forming polymer and the second film-forming polymer can be chosen, independently of one another, from radical polymers, polycondensates and polymers of natural origin as defined above having the glass transition temperature characteristics defined above .
As the first film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use the aqueous polymer dispersions sold under the names “NeoRez R-989®” by the company DSM, “Joncryl 95” and “Joncryl® 8211” by the company BASE.
As the second film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use, for example, the aqueous polymer dispersions sold under the names "Avalure® UR-405", "Avalure® UR-460" by the company NOVEON or "Acrilem IC89RT®" by the company ICAP, Néocryl A-45 by the company DSM.
The film-forming polymer of the aqueous dispersion "Avalure® UR-460" is a polyurethane obtained by the polycondensation of poly tetramethylene oxide, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate and dimethylol propionic acid.
According to a very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the first and second film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion are used the combination of styrene / acrylate polymer dispersion such as the dispersion sold under the reference "Joncryl 8211®" by BASE and dispersion of acrylic polymer such as the dispersion sold under the reference “Neocryl A-45®” by DSM.
According to another preferred embodiment of this particular embodiment of point 3 / above, the first film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion is used a dispersion of acrylic polymer such as the dispersion sold under the reference "Joncryl 95®" by BASF and as second fdmogenic polymer a dispersion of anionic polyurethane polymer sold under the reference "Avalure UR405®" by DSM.
As aqueous dispersions of fdmogenic polymer, it is possible to use: - the acrylic dispersions sold under the names “Acronal DS-6250®” by the company BASF, “Neocryl A-45®”, “Neocryl XK-90®”, “Neocryl A -1070® ”,“ Neocryl A-1090® ”,“ Neocryl BT-62® ”,“ Neocryl A-1079® ”and“ Neocryl A-523® ”by DSM,“ Joncryl 95® ”,“ Joncryl 8211 ® ”by the company BASF,“ Daitosol 5000 AD® ”or“ Daitosol 5000 SJ ”by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; “Syntran 5760 CG” by the company Interpolymer, - the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names “Neorez R-981®” and “Neorez R-974®” by the company DSM, the “Avalure UR-405®”, “ Avalure UR-410® "," Avalure UR-425® "," Avalure UR-450® "," Sancure 875® "," Avalure UR 445® "," Avalure UR 450® "by NOVEON," Impranil 85 ® ”by the company BAYER,“ Baycusan Cl004® ”by the company BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE, - the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name“ Eastman AQ® ”by the company EASTMAN CHEMICAL PRODUCTS, - the vinyl dispersions like the“ Mexomer PAM ” , aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as "Vinybran®" from the company Nisshin Chemical or those sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropyl-methacrylamidoammonium chloride such as the “Styleze W®” - from ISP, - the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those sold under the references “Hybridur®” by the company AIR PRODUCTS or “Duromer®” from NATIONAL STARCH, - the dispersions particles of the core-shell type such as those sold by the company ARKEMA under the reference "Kynar®" (core: fluorinated-shell: acrylic) or also those described in US 5,188,899 (core: silica - shell: silicone) and their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from acrylic polymers, ionic or nonionic, in particular resulting from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomer (s) such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and / or their esters, in particular C'-Cs alkyl; styrene / acrylate copolymers, and in particular the polymers chosen from those resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one C1-Cis alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer, optionally in the presence of an acid monomer ( meth) acrylic; aqueous dispersions of polyurethane polymer (s), in particular of polyester-polyurethane, and their derivatives, and their mixture (s).
Preferably, an aqueous dispersion of homogeneous polymer (s), plasticized or not, is used, at least one of which has a glass transition temperature (Tg) varying from -15 ° C to 90 ° C, more particularly of 0 ° C to 50 ° C.
NON-VOLATILE SILICONATED OILS
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil, not comprising a (poly) oxyalkylenated group whose oxyalkylenated unit is in C2-C3, nor of (poly) glycerolated group.
In other words, the silicone non-volatile oil (s) are not amino silicone non-volatile oils because they are free of nitrogen atoms.
Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil is free of the -Si-H group.
It also preferably does not include a C8-C22 alkyl group when the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise a phenyl group.
By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 ° C is not zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.
Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil is non-ionic.
According to the invention, "nonionic" means that the compound does not comprise an ionic group regardless of the pH of the composition.
Among the non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the present invention, non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils and non-volatile phenylated silicone oils, which may or may not have a dimethicone fragment, may also be mentioned, as well as their mixtures. The silicone oil can be used in the composition according to the invention, as it is, or in a form dissolved in at least one oil, volatile or non-volatile, or also in the form of an emulsion.
Non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils The expression “non-phenylated silicone oil” designates a silicone oil not containing phenyl substituents.
Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; vinyldimethicones and copolymers with dimethicone.
Furthermore, the term "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
In particular, these oils can be chosen from the following non-volatile oils: - polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), - polydimethylsiloxanes comprising functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, - divinylmethicone / dimethicone copolymers - their mixtures. The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil can be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):
(I) in which: - Ri, R2, Rs and Re are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms carbon or a hydroxyl radical, - X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, - n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25 ° C is between 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 "6 m2 / s) and 800,000 cSt, advantageously less than 600,000 cSt.
As non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of those for which: the substituents R 1 to R 5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is of 500,000 cSt, for example the product marketed under the name Silsoft SE30 by the company Momentive Performances Materials, the product marketed under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product marketed under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by Bluestar, and the product marketed under the name Dow Corning 200 fluid 500,000 cSt by the company Dow Corning, - the substituents Ri to R5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker, - substituents R 1 to R 5 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is either 100 cSt or 350 cSt, for example the products marketed respectively under the names Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 fluid 350 CS, for example the company Dow Corning, and - the substituents Ri to R5 represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive Performances Materials.
Dimethiconols may also be suitable, such as the Xiameter PMX-1503 (mixed with dimethicone), Xiameter PMX-1502 (mixed with Cl 1-33 isoparaffin, isohexadecane, dimethicone) products from Dow Corning. The silicone oil can be used as it is, or in a form dissolved in at least one oil, volatile or non-volatile, or even in the form of an emulsion. Examples of non-volatile silicone oil emulsions that may be mentioned include the products Xiameter MEM-1352 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, 02-15 pareth-3), Xiameter MEM 1491 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23 , 02-15 pareth-3), Xiameter MEM-1691 Emulsion (dimethicone, 02-13 pareth-4 and 02-13 pareth-23 and salicylic acid), Xiameter MEM 1652 Emulsion (dimethicone, 02-13 pareth-23; 02 -05 pareth 3, salicylic acid), Xiameter MEM 1664 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-4, laureth-23), Xiameter MEM-2664 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, laureth-4), Xiameter MEM-1784 Emulsion or Dow Corning CE2060 (dimethicone, cocamidopropylbetaine, 02-15 pareth-3, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), Xiameter MEM-1785 Emulsion, Xiameter MEM — 1784 Emulsion or Xiameter MEM — 1788 Emulsion (dimethiconol, TEA dodecylbenzenesulfonate), Belsil DM 3560 VP (dimethiconol, dodecylbenzenesulfonate, trideceth-10), Dow Corning HMW 2220 non ionic emulsion (divinyldimethicone / dimethicone c opolymer, 02-13 pareth-3, 02-13 pareth-23), sold by Dow Corning; KM-862T (nonionic) by Shin Etsu.
Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils The expression “phenylated silicone oil” designates a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.
These non-volatile phenylated silicone oils can be chosen from those which also have at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those which do not. Note that the terms "dimethicone fragment" denote a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being at the ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: - (Si (CH3) 2-O) -. The non-volatile phenylated silicone oil can thus be chosen from: - phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (I):
wherein the R groups, monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, methyl, methylene, phenyl or phenylene, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl.
Preferably, in this formula, the phenylated silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. - phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have a dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (II):
D D
D in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl.
Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
Mixtures of different compounds of formula (II) previously described can be used.
Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.
Among the compounds of formula (II), there may be mentioned more particularly phenylated silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the radicals remaining representing methyls.
Such non-volatile phenylated silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyl-trisiloxane, or tetramethyl-tetraphenyl-trisiloxane. They are in particular marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,5,5,5-pentaphenyl-trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl-pentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyl-tetraphenyl-trisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.
They correspond in particular to the following formulas (III) and (IIP):
in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. - phenylated silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (IV):
) in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH2-CH (CH3) (Ph). - phenylated silicone oils with or without a dimethicone fragment, corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures of these:
in which: - Ri in Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 1000, preferably 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is different from 0 and that the silicone oil is non-volatile.
Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 1000, more particularly between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.
Preferably, q is equal to 0.
More particularly, Ri to Rio, independently of each other, represent a C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, in C1-C20, in particular in Ci-Cis, or an aryl radical in Cô-Cm and in particular in C10-C13, monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical preferably whose alkyl part is in C1-C3.
Preferably, Ri to Rio can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to Rio can in particular be identical, and in addition can be a methyl radical.
As particular embodiments of formula (V), mention may be made of: o phenylated silicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures of these:
in which :
R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, an aryl radical, preferably of G, -C14, or an aralkyl radical of which the alkyl part is C1-C3). m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 1000, preferably between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 1000, preferably between 1 and 100.
Preferably, R 1 to R 1, independently of one another, represent a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, in C1-C20, in particular in Ci-Cis, or an aryl radical in G-C14 monocyclic (preferably in C6) or polycyclic and in particular in C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is in Cô; the alkyl part is in C1-C3).
Preferably, Ri a R (, may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
Ri to Rf, may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VI).
According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is chosen from phenylated silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.
Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which: m = 0 and n and p are, independently of one another, integers between 1 and 100.
Preferably R1 to R (, are methyl radicals.
According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt ), KF-53 by Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS by Shin Etsu (100 cSt). p is between 1 and 1000, the sum n + m is between 1 and 1000, and n = 0.
These phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have at least one dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to the formula (VII) below:
in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe3 and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound ( VII) or a non-volatile oil.
According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenylated silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000. m is more particularly such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. It can be used, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, sold in particular under the references Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20, by the company Wacker.
According to a second embodiment of non-volatile phenylated silicone having no dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0. m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.
It can be used, for example, phenyltrimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556). o non-volatile phenylated silicone oils having no dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures of these:
in which: - R, independently of one another, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably C6 -Cm, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C1-C3. - m and n are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.
Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, in C1-C20, in particular in Ci-Cis and more particularly in
C4-C10, a monocyclic or polycyclic and in particular C10-C13 C6-Cr aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, preferably the aryl part is C6 and the alkyl part is C1-C3.
Preferably, the Rs can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
The Rs may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably R is a methyl radical.
According to one embodiment, a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 5 and 1500 mm2 / s (that is to say, from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (that is to say 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used.
According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n = 0, m more particularly between 1 and 3) such as Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade fluid from Dow Corning (20 cSt) , or also from diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KE56 A from Shin Etsu, Silbione oil 70663V30 from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt). The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25 ° C. - phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:
in which :
Ri, R2, Rs and Re are, identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, identical or not, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (of preferably in C6-Cr), provided that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass preferably less than 150,000 g / mole and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mole. - and a mixture of these.
More particularly, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; phenylated silicone non-volatile oils preferably having a dimethicone fragment, as well as their mixtures.
Preferably, the composition comprises, as non-volatile silicone oil (s), polydimethylsiloxanes, phenylated silicones of formula (V), as well as their mixtures.
Preferably the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil (s) having a dimethicone fragment are chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, diphenyldimethicone, as well as their mixtures.
Obviously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition to the aforementioned non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, phenyl silicone non-volatile oils having no dimethicone fragment, such as phenyltrimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures.
Advantageously, if the composition contains it, the content of non-volatile silicone oil (s) is more particularly between 2 and 35% by weight, preferably between 4 and 30% by weight, relative the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile, polar or non-polar hydro-carbon oil.
The term “oil” designates a compound which is liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa)
By “hydro-carbon oil” is meant a compound which is liquid at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), non-aqueous, immiscible with water, essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms , and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atom. A hydro-carbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil or a fluorinated oil. Hydro-carbon oil can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
By “immiscible” is meant more particularly that the mixture of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the conditions of temperature and pressure mentioned above. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to reveal a vortex within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm / min); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.
Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils
In particular, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) are chosen from C10-C26 alcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a mono or polycarboxylic acid in C2-C8 and of an alcohol in C2-C8. ; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more C2-C8 carboxy acids; ester oils having at least 17 carbon atoms, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms; vegetable hydrocarbon oils; sucrose esters: vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers; oils comprising at least one carbonate function; their mixtures.
As regards the ester oils having at least 17 carbon atoms, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters.
The ester oils can be hydroxylated or not.
More particularly, these oils are chosen from: - C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;
More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or not, branched or not, and contain from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms. By way of examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin, or even natural, such as, for example, alcohols from plant materials (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (suet ...).
Other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as ether-alcohols or also so-called Guerbet alcohols.
Finally, it is also possible to use certain longer or shorter cuts of alcohol of natural origin, such as, for example, coconut (C12 to Cw) or tallow (Cw to Cw).
Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. By way of particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used as preferred, mention may especially be made of lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol , octyldodecanol and their mixtures.
According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol. - monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a mono or polycarboxylic acid in C2-C8 and of an alcohol in C2-C8.
In particular: * the monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, * the diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethyl hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succeinate, * triesters of a C2-C8 triacid and a C2 alcohol -C8, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate. - the esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or glycol and monoacid triesters such than triacetin. As suitable non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may also be made of: * Monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, in particular comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is > 18, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, myristate d isopropyl, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate of 2 -octyldodécyle.
Preferably, these are esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms , Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R2 is> 17.
Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total. As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate; * Fatty acid monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, and in particular having from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and diols. Notably, these can be esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate. * Diesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, in particular comprising between 17 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 17 and 50 carbon atoms in total, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated. It is thus possible to use more particularly the diesters of dicarboxylic acid, optionally hydroxylated, and of saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate. Diesters of glycol, in particular C2-C5, of glycerol or of diglycerol and of linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, can also be used. propylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or 2-polyglyceryl diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo). * Hydroxy monoesters and diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, preferably having a carbon number ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, hydroxystearate octyldodecyl, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate. * Triesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triacids of carboxylic triacid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters and mono carboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate. * Tetraesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and of a mono carboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl teteasononanoate, glyceryl tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetra decyl-tetradecanoate. * The polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. Mention may in particular be made, as such, of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or alternatively the copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA. * Esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid. such as the dimer diol and fatty acid esters and the dimer diol and dimer dicarboxylic acid esters, in particular obtainable from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular in Cs to C34, in particular in C12 to C22, in particular in C16 to C20, and more particularly in Cis, such as the esters of dilinoleic acids and of dilinoleic dimer diols, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LLSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. * The polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid (s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated such as castor oil succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zénitech. * Vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and their mixtures, for example such as that sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, acid triglycerides Cw-36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), and the unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil. * The sucrose esters, preferably chosen from the hydrocarbon esters of sucrose and of C2-C6 carboxylic acid, in particular those chosen from mixtures of esters of acetic acid and isobutyric acid with sucrose, preferably sucrose di-acetate-hexa- (2-methyl-propanoate), in particular the compound whose name INCI is Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate (in particular marketed under the reference Sustane Saib Eood Grade Kosher by the company Eastman Chemicals) and the compounds of name INCI Sucrose Polyosoyate marketed under the reference Crodaderm S by the company Croda, Sucrose Polybéhénate marketed under the reference Crodaderm B by the company Croda, Sucrose Polycottonseedate marketed under the reference Crodaderm C by the company Croda; and their mixtures. - vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as that sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP. - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis. - and their mixtures.
In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises at least one polar hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a mono or polycarboxylic acid in C2-C8 and of an alcohol in C2-C8, optionally hydroxylated; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more C2-C8 carboxy acids; alone or in mixtures, then their content is preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. More particularly, their content is less than 5% by weight, and even more preferably less than 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise this type of polar hydrocarbon oil.
Apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils
The non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil (s) are more particularly chosen from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (hydrocarbons).
Said oils, linear or branched, can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil or its derivatives, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - naphthalene oil, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example INDOPOL H-100, INDOPOL H-300, INDOPOL H-1500 sold or manufactured by the company AMOCO, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as for example Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, the PANALANE H-300 E marketed by the company AMOCO, the VISEAL 20000 marketed by the company SYNTEAL, the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by the company WITCO, or the PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation, - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, - hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes such as for example PURESYN 10, PURESYN 150 or else PURESYN 6 marketed by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL), - and their mixtures.
If the composition comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon, polar or nonpolar oil, the content of such oils is advantageously between 2 and 35% by weight, preferably 8 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition .
In accordance with a more particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition contains it, the content of non-volatile oil (s) of hydrocarbon (s) is such that the weight ratio of non-silicone oil (s) volatile (s) / second non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2
VOLATILE OILS
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil, chosen more particularly from volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils.
By volatile oil is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature (25 ° C), ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and preferably at 1300 Pa.
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils and in particular can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched alkanes of C's-C k, such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C's-Ci6, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permyls, - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (02) and n-tetradecane (04) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (03) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and - their mixtures. The volatile silicone oil can be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. Examples of such oils that may be mentioned are octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclo-hexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, commercial polydimethysiloxanes such as DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A by Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.
If the composition includes it, the content of volatile oil (s) is more particularly such that the weight ratio of silicone resin / volatile oil (s) is greater than 1.
More particularly, if the composition comprises them, the content of volatile oil (s) is less than 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, if the composition comprises, the content of volatile oil (s), hydrocarbon (s) or silicone (s), varies from 0.1 to less than 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
SURFACE
The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one surfactant chosen from hydrocarbon, ionic, in particular anionic, or nonionic surfactants, from silicone surfactants, preferably nonionic, as well as their mixtures.
Preferably, the composition comprises at least one nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant. More particularly, it comprises at least one nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 8.
According to this variant, the composition may comprise at least one additional surfactant chosen from nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants with an HLB of less than 8, or from anionic hydrocarbon surfactants, as well as their mixtures.
The composition may optionally comprise at least one nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 8 and at least one silicone surfactant, preferably nonionic. Such emulsions can optionally comprise at least one additional surfactant chosen from nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 and / or anionics.
More particularly, the content of surfactant (s) varies from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
It should be noted that the contents and the nature of the surfactants is such that the composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
Nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants
High HLB non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactant
According to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 (HLB: hydrophilic-lipophilic balance; within the meaning of GRIFFIN as defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256), and preferably more than 8.
The nonionic surfactant (s) may be chosen in particular from poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly (ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, the alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, the alkyl- and polyalkylglycosides or polyglycosides, in particular the alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, the alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sucrose, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not and their mixtures. 1) As the alkyl- and polyalkylesters of poly (ethylene oxide), preferably used those having at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Mention may for example be made (by INCI name) of PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cococate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. 2) As alkyl- and polyalkylethers of poly (ethylene oxide), use is preferably made of those having at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 3 to 200. We can for example cite laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth- 7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 OE, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth 100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12 -15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7, trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof. 3) As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Mention may for example be made of sorbitan laurate , sorbitan laurate 4OE, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80 ), sorbitan trioletate 20 EO (polysorbate 85). 4) As alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. 5) As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, preferably those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 , in particular 1, 2 to 3 units of glucoside. The alkylpolyglucosides can be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (Alkyl-Cg / Cn-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and their mixtures. 6) As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sucrose, there may be mentioned for example the Crodesta F150, the sucrose monolaurate marketed under the name Crodesta SL 40, the products marketed by Ryoto Sugar Ester such as, for example, the sucrose palmitate marketed under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. Also suitable are monooleate, monomyristate, sucrose monostearate. 7) As alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Mention may for example be made of hexaglyceryl monolaurate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate , PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate. 8) As alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. By way of example, mention may be made of Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100, Nikkol chimyl alcohol 100.
Low HLB nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant, in particular chosen from surfactants having an HLB value of less than 8. As examples of such surfactants, mention may be made in particular, alone or in mixtures : 1) (C8-C3o) alkyl ethers of poly (ethylene oxide), such as preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 4. As examples , mention may in particular be made of laureth-2; steareth-2, oleth-2; oleth-3; ceteth-2; ceteareth-3; trideceth-3; 2) alkyls (C8-C3o) - and polyalkyl (C8-C3o) - esters of ethylene oxide, of propylene, of poly (ethylene oxide) or of poly (propylene oxide), as preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 1 to 5, with, for example, glycol distearate, glycol stearate, PEG-2 oleate; PEG-3 oleate; PEG-4 dilaurate, propylene glycol isostearate; PEG-2.5 beaver oil; PEG-3 beaver oil. 3) polyesters of fatty acid, preferably polyhydroxylated, C12-C20, polyoxyalkylenated, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, having emulsifying properties water-in-oil. In particular, these polymers are block polymers, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly (hydroxylated ester) blocks and polyethylene glycol blocks. The fatty acid of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably has from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The esters can in particular be chosen from oleates, palmitates or stearates. The polyethylene glycol blocks of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprise from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. A polymeric surfactant which is particularly suitable for producing the compositions of the invention is polyethylene glycol di-polyhydroxystearate with 30 EO sold under the trade name Arlacel P 135 by the company Croda. 4) alkyl (C8-C3o) - and polyalkyl (C8-C3o) - sorbitan esters, such as for example sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, mixtures of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (Arlacel 2121 sold by the company Croda), or else sorbitan and glycerol isostearate; sorbitan isostearate mixed with hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid and white wax (Arlacel 986 sold by the company Croda), and mixtures thereof). 5) (C8-C3o) alkyl and polyalkyl (C8-C3o) - (poly) glycerol esters, those having a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 4 are preferably used. For example, polyglyceryl 4 can be cited -isostearate (Isolan GI 34 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt); polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (LAMEFORM TGI sold by the company Cognis), glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, alone or in mixtures.
Ionic hydrocarbon surfactants
The composition may optionally comprise one or more ionic, in particular anionic, preferably hydrocarbon, surfactants.
The latter can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as in particular sodium, potassium, or also amine or alkanolamine, in particular C2-C4, primary or secondary, of the following compounds:
These compounds generally contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 20 carbon atoms in their longest hydrocarbon chain, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic. They can also contain up to 20 oxyalkylenated units, preferably up to 15 units (in particular oxyethylenated): alkyl ether sulfates, salts of fatty acids, in particular C8-C20, in particular mono carboxylic; carboxylates such as N-acylamino acid salts, alkylglycolcarboxylates, ether carboxylates, amido ethercarboxylates; amino acid salts, in particular, sarcosinates, alaninates, glutamates, aspartates, glycinates, sulfonates, such as alpha olefins sulfonates, in particular alkanolamine or alkali metal salts (such as sodium in particular) ) of dodecylbenzene sulfonate isethionates, such as acylisethionates taurates, such as N-acyl methyl taurates, in particular N acyl methyltaurates sulfosuccinates, such as alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular the salts of dioctylsulfosuccinate alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates, phosphates, phosphates, phosphates, phosphates obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on the amino acids of cereals and in particular of wheat and oats.
Preferably, when it includes them, the composition comprises at most 2.5% by weight, more particularly at most 1.5% by weight, preferably at most 1% by weight, even at most 0.8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, in alkali metal, amine or alkanolamine salts, of fatty acids, in particular C8-C20.
Silicone surfactants
The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one silicone surfactant, preferably nonionic.
The silicone surfactant (s) may be chosen from compounds having an HLB value greater than or equal to 8, or less than 8.
Among suitable nonionic silicone surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or alkoxy chain hanging or at the end of the silicone skeleton having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; dimethicones copolyols, which are more particularly oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxanes, branched (poly) glycerolated polysiloxanes, as well as crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, and their mixtures. By way of example of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) below:
in which: - PE represents (-C2H4O) x- (C3H6O) yR, R being chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not being simultaneously 0; preferably R represents a hydrogen atom; - m ranging from 1 to 40; preferably from 1 to 10; - n ranging from 10 to 200; preferably from 10 to 100; - o ranging from 1 to 100; preferably from 1 to 30; - p ranging from 5 to 21, more particularly 7 to 21; - q ranging from 0 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3. As examples of dimethicone copolyols, one can use those corresponding more particularly to the following formula (II):
Π) in which: - Ri, R2, R3, independently of one another, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a radical - (CH2) X - (OCFFCFFf - (OC H2CH2CH2) / - OR4, at least one radical Ri, R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C -C alkyl radical or a C2-c4 acyl radical; - A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; - B is a integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; and - z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30, preferably ranging from 0 to 20.
Among the particularly preferred silicone surfactants, there may be mentioned: - dimethicone copolyols such as, for example, those sold under the names, KF- 6015 (PEG-3 dimethicone), KF-6016 (PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone), KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone), KF-6028 (PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), KF-6050 L (PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane), X-22-6711D (PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone in dimethicone), sold by the company Shin-Etsu; dimethicone
copolyols marketed under the names Xiameter OFX-0193 Fluid (PEG-12 dimethicone),; Dow Corning 3225C® (PEG / PPG-18/18 DIMETHICONE in a mixture of cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), DC 5225 C Formulation Aid (PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane); or the product sold under the name SF 1528 GE (mixture of PEG / PPG-20/15 Dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane) by Momentive Performance Materials.
Abil Care 85 can be used (bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16 dimethicone in mixture with the capric / caprylic acid triglyceride).
One can also use alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 Methicone (which is more particularly an alkoxylated derivative of Lauryl Methicone containing on average 18 moles of ethylene oxide and 18 moles of oxide propylene, sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (which is more particularly a copolymer of Cetyl Dimethicone and of an alkoxylated derivative of dimethicone containing on average 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 1 mole of propylene oxide) such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt as well as the mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, of isostearate of polyglycerole (4 moles) and of hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
It is likewise possible to use polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone (KF6100 from Shin Etsu).
Mention may also be made, as surfactants of emulsions, in particular for water-in-oil emulsions, of organopolysiloxane crosslinked solid elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of document US-A-5,412,004 and examples of document US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of example 3 (synthetic example) of patent US-A-5,412,004, and such as that sold under the references KSG 21, KSG-210, by the company Shin Etsu.
Preferably, as C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol is used, in particular whose INCI name is CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, as the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4-isostearate and hexylaurate, such as the product sold under the name Abil WE-09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (the INCI name is polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexylaurate ( and) cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone).
Advantageously, if they are present, the silicone surfactant (s) are chosen from the dimethicone copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone copolyols previously described, alone or in mixtures.
More particularly, the silicone surfactant (s) are chosen from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE), dimethicone copolyols such as for example PEG dimethicone, PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone (INCI name), as well as their mixtures. It is also possible to use a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4-isostearate and hexylaurate, such as the product sold under the name Abil WE-09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (the INCI name is polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexylaurate ( and) cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone).
AQUEOUS PHASE
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion in which the aqueous phase constitutes the continuous phase of the emulsion.
The term “aqueous continuous phase composition” is understood to mean more particularly that a pH value can be measured for the composition with an appropriate electrode (for example of a conductor MPC227 from Mettler Toledo).
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 10% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the water content is between 10 and 70% by weight, preferably between 15 and 65% by weight, in particular between 20 and 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent.
By “water-soluble solvent”, is meant in the present invention a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).
The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can also be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and aldehydes in C2-C4.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of mono-alcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 15% by weight (limits included) relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of mono-alcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 10% by weight (limits included), advantageously between 0 and 5% by weight (limits included) , relative to the weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free from mono-alcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms.
Preferably, said mono-alcohol (s) comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms is / are chosen from ethanol, butanol, methanol or isopropanol C2-C8 POLYOL
The composition may optionally comprise at least one polyol more particularly chosen from C2-C8, preferably C3-C6 compounds, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, diglycerin, and their mixtures.
Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the polyol content represents less than 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.05 to less than 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to less than 10% by weight, per relative to the weight of the composition. According to an even more advantageous mode, the polyol content varies from 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
HYDROPHILIC THICKENERS
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer (also called thickening polymer for the aqueous phase).
More particularly, this thickening polymer can be chosen from: - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and their esters. By way of examples, mention may be made in particular of the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the company ALLIED COLLOID, LTRAHOLD 8 by the company CIBA-GEIGY, COSMEDIA SP by the company BASF, LECIGEL (mixture of sodium avrylates copolymer / lecithin) by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics; polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, and the salts, especially of sodium, of polyacrylic acid (by the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (by the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name LLVIGEL EM,
Mention may also be made of polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, with very particularly, acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such that the products marketed by Lubrizol under the trade names PEMLLEN TRI, PEMLLEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL EDT 2020 and even more preferably PEMLLEN TR-2; copolymers of methacrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, methylstyrene isocyanate and PEG-40 behenate (INCI name polyacrylate-3 (Viscophobe DB 1000 sold by the company Dow), - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold under the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCLLES, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN N ° 7 by the company VANDERBILT, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company HENKEL, - homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido propanesulfonic acid, such as for example: - polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked, for example the product HOSTACERIN AMPS marketed in particular by the company CLARIANT , - acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / acrylamide copolymers, for example of the SEPI type GEL or SIMULGEL sold in particular by the company SEPPIC, - copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylates (crosslinked or not), inter alia of the ARISTOLLEX HMS, ARISTOLLEX TAC type, sold by the company CLARIANT,
- the copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as in particular that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS by the company SEPPIC, or else the acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as in particular that used in the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER); - the copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product ARISTOLLEX AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, in water) sold by the company Clariant; - and their mixtures.
As other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers, mention may be made of: - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; - cellulose polymers, in particular hydroxyalkyl (Ci-C3) cellulose, chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol; - polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Konjac gum, Gellan gum, Carob gum, fenugreek gum, Karaya gum, Tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified by sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), xanthan gum and its derivatives; - alginates and carrageenans; - saccharide muccopoly s such as hyaluronic acid; - and their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening polymer is chosen from copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid, and in particular from copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, when the composition contains it, the content of hydrophilic thickening polymer is between 0.01 and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 1% by weight, and advantageously 0.1 to 0, 8%, relative to the weight of the composition.
COLORING MATERIALS
A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one coloring material. Preferably, the latter is chosen from water-soluble or non-soluble, liposoluble or not, organic or inorganic dyestuffs, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring matter” is intended to mean a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in a sufficient amount in an appropriate cosmetic medium.
Water-soluble coloring matter
The water-soluble coloring materials used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.
By "water-soluble dye" is meant within the meaning of the invention, any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring. In particular, the term “water-soluble” is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25 ° C., at the rate of a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g / l (obtaining of a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / 1. As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example DC Red 6 (Uithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), FDC Red 40 (CI 160351e DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510, Na salt), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Sel Na), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090) By way of non-limiting illustration of sources of water-soluble coloring matter (s) capable of being used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of those of natural origin, such as carmine, cochineal, beet, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin extracts.
Thus, the water-soluble coloring matters suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthyne, capsorubin, flovoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin , rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
It can also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium salt of tartrazine and disodium salt of fuschine.
Some of these water-soluble coloring matters are in particular approved for food. As a representative of these dyes, mention may more particularly be made of dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
Liposoluble coloring matter
Among the liposoluble dyes, mention may be made particularly of dyes of the fluoran type such as, for example, Sudan red, FDC Red 4, DC Red 17, Red 21, Red 27, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan brown, Yellow 10, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 4, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow, or mixtures thereof.
pigments
The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in the medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.
The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
The pigments can be chosen from monochrome pigments, lacquers, nacres, pigments with optical effects, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
The mineral pigments can be chosen from metallic oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and their mixtures.
The organic pigments can be, for example: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes; - organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinolinic dyes , triphenylmethane, fluorane. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group; - melanin pigments.
Among the organic pigments, one can cite D & C Blue n ° 4, D & C Brown n ° 1, D & C Green n ° 5, D & C Green n ° 6, D & C Orange n ° 4, D & C Orange n ° 5, D & C Orange n ° 10, D & C Orange n ° ll, D & C Red n ° 6, D & C Red n ° 7, D & C Red n ° 17, D & C Red n ° 21, D & C Red n ° 22, D & C Red n ° 27, D & C Red n ° 28, D & C Red n ° 30, D & C Red n ° 31, D & C Red n ° 33, D & C Red n ° 34, D & C Red n ° 36, D & C Violet n ° 2, D & C Yellow n ° 7, D & C Yellow n ° 8, D & C Yellow n ° 10 , D & C Yellow n ° ll, FD & C Blue n ° 1, FD & C Green n ° 3, FD & C Red n ° 40, FD & C Yellow n ° 5, FD & C Yellow n ° 6.
The pigments may have undergone a hydrophobic treatment. The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen, for example, from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyoxides of hexafluoropropylene, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl groups perfluoropolyethers, amino acids ; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.
The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
Hydrophobic treated pigments are in particular described in application EP-A-1086683.
The pigments may also have undergone a hydrophilic treatment, for example with polyalkoxylated silicones.
It is also possible to use pigments in a form dispersed in water, sorbitol, glycerin, glycols, alone or in mixtures, such as the products from the Covarine, Covasorb, Covasop ranges from Sensient, pigments from the WD series from Daito, Worlée Base AQ from Worlée.
nacres
By "mother-of-pearl", within the meaning of the present application, is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
Examples of nacres that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a organic dye in particular of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.
The nacres can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection. By way of illustration of the nacres which can be introduced as an interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of the gold-colored nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name of Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-colored mother-of-pearl in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper reflective nacres sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with a red reflection, in particular sold by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-reflective nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted pearls with a gold reflection, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl in particular sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with gold reflection in particular marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with reflection silvery in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish orange-green pearl-green in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.
The content of coloring matters is advantageously between 0.05 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
EXPENSES
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature.
The term “filler” should be understood to mean colorless or white particles, solid of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic in nature, they make it possible to impart body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup. They are distinct from coloring matters
Among the fillers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of silica, kaolin, starch, lauroyl-lysine, fumed silica particles, optionally treated hydrophilically, mica, talc, sericite, polyamide (Nylon®), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie ), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulphate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, meta soaps lliques derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate and their mixtures.
The composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 8% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
LIPOPHILIC THICKENER The hydrophobic thickener can be chosen from mineral thickeners such as in particular organophilic clays; hydrophobic fumed silicas; hydrophobic silica aerogels; among organic thickeners such as oil gelling polymers of the type of block polymers, in particular triblock or star polymers, resulting from the copolymerization of at least styrene monomer and at least one hydrocarbon monomer with one or two ethylenic unsaturations, in C2-C5, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, and / or pentadiene, such as the polymers sold under the name Kraton; polyamide resins comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in LS-A-5783657; the alkyl ethers of polysaccharides, in particular of which the alkyl group is in C1-C24, preferably in C1-C10, better in Ci-Ce, described in particular in EP 898958, and in particular alkylated guar gums (with alkyl group in C1- Ce), such as those described in EP 708114; dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably C12 to C24, in particular Ci4_Ci8, for example dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate; N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group is a linear or branched Cs to C22 alkyl chain; preferably dialkyl N-acylglutamide, such as for example dibutylamide of lauroylglutamic acid or dibutylamide of N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid; hydroxystearic acid; ethylene diamine stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer (for example sold under the name Oleocraft by Croda); as well as their mixtures.
Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one hydrophobic thickener, this is preferably chosen from mineral thickeners.
The clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations and their mixtures. Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as the vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites family. . These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified with a quaternary amine, more precisely with a halide, such as a chloride, of C 10 -C 22 fatty acid ammonium, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride (name CTL A: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name of Bentone 38V®, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; Hectorites stearalkonium such as Bentone 27 V,
Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 sold by the company Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel UG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AL, Claytone AP A by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay
According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular by halides, preferably benzyldimethyl ammonium stearate chlorides, or by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
Hydrophobic fumed silicas can be obtained by modification of the surface of the silica by a chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups, these groups possibly being in particular substituted by hydrophobic groups. The hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530®" by the company Cabot; - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R972®", "AEROSIL R974®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720®" by the company Pooch.
Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ., And Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
Preferably, hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups are used. As hydrophobic silica aerogels, there may be mentioned, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 (name INCI Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.
The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are generally partially or completely crosslinked and possibly of three-dimensional structure. The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes associated with a fatty phase are generally in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane associated with a fatty phase, included in at least one hydro-carbon oil and / or a silicone oil. They can be chosen in particular from the crosslinked polymers described in application EP-A-0295886. According to this application, the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are obtained by addition and crosslinking reaction of at least: (a) an organopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups per molecule; (b) an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to one silicon atom per molecule; and (c) and a platinum type catalyst. The hydrophobic thickening agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight.
USUAL ADDITIVES
The composition according to the invention can also comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which can be chosen in particular from waxes, pasty compounds, additional hydrating agents (also called humectants), other than the aforementioned polyols, antioxidants, perfumes, menthol or menthol derivatives, preservatives, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, anti-free radicals, sequestrants, salts (magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride), pH adjusters, and their mixtures.
In addition, the composition according to the invention advantageously does not comprise alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more particularly from 2 to 3 carbon atoms, and more particularly does not comprise ethylcellulose.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by the addition envisaged.
Another object of the invention consists of a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and more particularly the lips, which consists in applying the composition according to the invention.
The composition according to the invention can be packaged in any type of device customary in the field of fluid cosmetic compositions intended in particular to be applied to the lips or to the face (such as the cheeks for example).
It will thus be possible to envisage devices containing a container comprising an applicator provided with a ball (roll-on), a container of the dispenser pen type, terminated by an end provided with at least one orifice through which the composition can be expelled, or still finished with a felt, or by a flocked nozzle, or by a brush; a container comprising a plunging applicator, such as a brush,
Such devices may or may not be provided with a mechanism for dispensing the composition making it possible to expel said composition from the container to the applicator member, or to the support. Note that this mechanism can advantageously include a means for dosing the composition.
The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without however limiting its scope. EXAMPLE 1
The composition, the ingredients of which are collected in the table below, is prepared (the percentages are expressed by weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated):
Procedure
The sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in water with Rayneri stirring. At 50 ° C., polysorbate 60 is added to the above mixture, with Rayneri stirring.
Rayneri, STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER latex is then added with stirring.
The thickening polymer (Hostacerin AMPS) is then added with stirring until the mixture thickens and a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
The mixture of silicone resin and isododecane is then slowly poured onto the mixture obtained previously by increasing the stirring speed and the stirring is left for 10 minutes.
Composition assessment
We obtain a direct liquid emulsion which does not flow, homogeneous and stable
The composition is easily applied to the lips.
We obtain a thin film, which does not migrate in fine lines and which does not stain teeth.
The deposit obtained is fresh, not very sticky, shiny, with an intense color.
It has very good color fastness on the lips and good gloss resistance and does not transfer.
Stability assessment:
No phase shift is observed after storage in a closed bottle for one week at 20 ° C.
Tights measurement protocol:
The composition is deposited on several stainless steel cups 100 μm deep and is leveled off as quickly as possible. The cups are left to dry at room temperature for one hour. The device used is a TAXT2i texturometer. The clamp mounted on the device clamps a 6 mm diameter AU4G cylinder at the end of which is stuck a smooth beige synthetic skin tip of the same diameter and 2 mm thick.
Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol.
We never take more than one measurement at the same location.
The parameters of the compression tests with maintenance over time are indicated below:
The tights are characterized by the release work measured during discharge (phase in traction), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joule per square meter. EXAMPLE 2
The composition, the ingredients of which are collected in the table below, is prepared (the percentages are expressed by weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated):
Procedure
The sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in water with Rayneri stirring. At 50 ° C., the polysorbate 60 is added to the above mixture, with Rayneri stirring, then allowed to cool with stirring once the solubilization has been carried out. At 30 ° C., Red 33 is added in the previous phase, then the latex, still with stirring
Rayneri.
The thickening polymer (Hostacerin AMPS) is then added with stirring until the mixture thickens without a mass of gels.
The silicone resin and isododecane are then slowly poured onto the mixture obtained above by increasing the stirring speed and the stirring is left for 10 minutes.
Then the mixture of phenyl silicone and remaining surfactants (PEG-8 isostearate and PEG-10 dimethicone) is poured onto the previous mixture and the stirring is left for 10 minutes.
Composition assessment
A homogeneous liquid direct emulsion is obtained.
We obtain a thin film, which does not migrate in fine lines and which does not stain teeth.
The deposit obtained is fresh, shiny, with an intense color.
The deposit is slightly sticky.
It has very good color fastness on the lips and good gloss resistance and does not transfer.

权利要求:
Claims (25)
[1" id="c-fr-0001]
1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a direct emulsion, comprising: • At least 10% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition; • At least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one silicone resin; • At least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one fdmogenic polymer chosen from synthetic polymers of radical type or of polycondensate type, and mixtures thereof; • Optionally at least one volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, in a content such that the weight ratio silicone resin / volatile oil (s) is greater than 1.
[2" id="c-fr-0002]
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition comprises a water content of between 10 and 70% by weight, preferably between 15 and 65% by weight, in particular between 20 and 60% by weight, relative the weight of the composition.
[3" id="c-fr-0003]
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone resin is chosen from: - MQ type silicone resins, such as alkylsiloxysilicates in particular of formula [(Rl) 3SiOi / 2] x (SiO4 / 2) y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a group phenylalkyl or alternatively a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group, - T-type silicone resins, such as polysilsesquioxanes, particular of formula (RSiO3 / 2) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes may also comprise end groups Si-OH. - MQT type resins, in particular MQT-propyl resins, preferably comprising the units: - (l) (Rl3SiOl / 2) a - (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2) b - (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2) c and - (iv) (SiO4 / 2) d with - RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical, in particular alkyl, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, - a, b, c and d being molar fractions, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, - b being between zero and 0.3, - c being greater than zero, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, - a + b + c + d = l, - provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[4" id="c-fr-0004]
4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the silicone resin is a MQ type resin, more particularly a siloxysilicate resin, such as the trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
[5" id="c-fr-0005]
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said silicone resin is present in a content of between 10 and 45% by weight, preferably between 12 and 40% by weight, in particular between 15 and 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[6" id="c-fr-0006]
6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of volatile oil (s) is such that the weight ratio of silicone resin / volatile oil (s) is greater than 1.
[7" id="c-fr-0007]
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the particles of formulating polymer (s) present (s) in the form of aqueous dispersion (s) is (are) chosen from dispersions of radical-type polymers chosen from vinyl polymers resulting from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers, the acids being in particular chosen among acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid; vinyl polymers resulting from Thomopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers at least chosen from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers; dispersions of hybrid polymers; dispersions of polymers of polycondensate type chosen from polyurethanes; polyurethanes-acrylics; polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones; polyester-polyurethanes; polyether polyurethanes; polyureas; polyureas / polyurethanes; polyesters; polyester amides; fatty chain polyesters; polyamides; and epoxy ester resins, dispersions of core-shell type particles and mixtures thereof; and preferably among the dispersions of acrylic polymers, the dispersions of styrene-acrylic polymers, and the dispersions of polyurethane, in particular polyester-polyurethane, and their derivatives, and their mixture (s).
[8" id="c-fr-0008]
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from acrylic, ionic or nonionic polymers, in particular resulting from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomer (s) such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and / or their esters, in particular C'-Cs alkyl; styrene / acrylate copolymers, and in particular the polymers chosen from those resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one C1-C18 alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer, optionally in the presence of an acid monomer ( meth) acrylic; aqueous dispersions, ionic or nonionic, of polyurethane polymer (s), in particular of polyester-polyurethane, and their derivatives, and their mixture (s).
[9" id="c-fr-0009]
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polymer dry matter is between 0.5 and 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, and even more preferably 2 at 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[10" id="c-fr-0010]
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polymer dry matter is such that the weight ratio of silicone resin (expressed as dry matter) / fdmogenic polymer (expressed as dry matter) is greater or equal to 1.
[11" id="c-fr-0011]
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one silicone non-volatile oil devoid of (poly) glycerolated, (poly) oxyalkylenated group, the oxyalkylenated unit being of C2-C3; preferably chosen from non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils and phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, with or without a dimethicone fragment, and their mixtures.
[12" id="c-fr-0012]
12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the silicone non-volatile oil or oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; phenylated silicone non-volatile oils having at least one dimethicone fragment, as well as their mixtures; and in particular among polydimethylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxyphenyl-dimethicone, diphenyldimethicone, as well as their mixtures.
[13" id="c-fr-0013]
13. Composition according to any one of claims 11 or 12, characterized in that the content of non-volatile oils (s) silicone (s) represents from 2 to 35% by weight, preferably between 4 and 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[14" id="c-fr-0014]
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of volatile oil (s), hydrocarbon (s) or silicone (s), is less than 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably varies from varies from 0.1 to less than 30% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[15" id="c-fr-0015]
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one non-volatile oil with polar hydro-carbon, preferably chosen from Cio-Cze alcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated ^ of a mono or polycarboxylic acid in Cz-Cg and of an alcohol in C2-Cg. ; esters of a C2-Cg polyol and iin or more C2-Cb carboxylic acids; ester oils having at least 17 carbon atoms, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms; vegetable hydrocarbon oils; sucrose esters; vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers; oils comprising at least one carbonate function; their mixtures.
[16" id="c-fr-0016]
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one non-volatile non-volatile hydroearbon oil, preferably chosen from paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosan, Naphthalene oil, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes and their mixtures.
[17" id="c-fr-0017]
17. Composition according to any one of claims 15 or J 6, characterized in that the content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s), polar (s) or apolar (s), is between 2 and 35% by weight, preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[18" id="c-fr-0018]
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one surfactant, preferably hydrocarbon, nonionic, anionic or their mixtures, and preferably at least one nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant.
[19" id="c-fr-0019]
19. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-ionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant (s) are chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly (ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly (oxide of ethylene), sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or not, sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, the alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, the alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, the alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not and their mixtures; preferably chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly (ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly (ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not , sorbitan alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or not, glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or not, glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or not and their mixtures; advantageously, the nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant (s) have an HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 8.
[20" id="c-fr-0020]
20. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the anionic hydrocarbon surfactant (s) are chosen from alkali metal salts such as in particular sodium, potassium, or also of amine or alkanolamine, in particular of C2-C4 , primary or secondary, of the following compounds: • alkyl ether sulfates, • salts of fatty acids, in particular C8-C20, in particular mono-carboxylic; • carboxylates such as N-acylamino acid salts, alkyl glycolcarboxylates, ether carboxylates, amido ethercarboxylates; • amino acid salts, in particular, sarcosinates, alaninates, glutamates, aspartates, glycinates, • sulfonates, such as alpha olefins sulfonates, in particular alkanolamine or alkali metal salts of dodecylbenzene sulfonate • isethionates, such as acylisethionates • taurates, such as N-acyl methyl taurates, in particular N acyl methyltaurates • sulfosuccinates, such as alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular dioctylsulfosuccinate salts • alkylsulfoacetates, • phosphates and alkylphosphates, • polypeptides, obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain on cereal amino acids and in particular wheat and oats, • as well as their mixtures, • these compounds at least one group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms in their longest, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, optionally comprising up to 20 oxyalkylene units C2-C3, preferably C2.
[21" id="c-fr-0021]
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of surfactant (s) represents from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of composition.
[22" id="c-fr-0022]
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer, preferably chosen from homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and their esters; copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide; homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido propanesulfonic acid; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers; vinyl polymers; polymers of natural origin, optionally modified; alginates and carrageenans; muccopolysaccharides and their mixtures.
[23" id="c-fr-0023]
23. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of hydrophilic thickener is between 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition .
[24" id="c-fr-0024]
24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring material, chosen from pigments, nacres, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, as well as their mixtures.
[25" id="c-fr-0025]
25. Process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips and preferably the lips, consisting in applying the composition claimed according to any one of the preceding claims.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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EP3727322A1|2020-10-28|

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FR3075623B1|2020-06-19|

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WO2019122102A1|2019-06-27|

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法律状态:
2018-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

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2019-06-28| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20190628 |

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2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

---

FR1763011A|FR3075623B1|2017-12-22|2017-12-22|COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A DIRECT EMULSION COMPRISING A SILICONE RESIN, A FILM-FORMING POLYMER AND METHOD OF USING THE SAME|

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FR1763011|2017-12-22|FR1763011A| FR3075623B1|2017-12-22|2017-12-22|COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A DIRECT EMULSION COMPRISING A SILICONE RESIN, A FILM-FORMING POLYMER AND METHOD OF USING THE SAME|

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EP18826655.5A| EP3727322A1|2017-12-22|2018-12-20|Composition in the form of a direct emulsion comprising a silicone resin and a film-forming polymer, and process using same|

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PCT/EP2018/086154| WO2019122102A1|2017-12-22|2018-12-20|Composition in the form of a direct emulsion comprising a silicone resin and a film-forming polymer, and process using same|